(They Don’t Call It Crispy Crust For Nothing) By Rona Edwards
You know the old adage: you can’t judge a book by its cover? Well that phrase came back to haunt me one day as I was driving to meet John Melkonyan, the long-time owner of The Ponchik Factory on Sunset Boulevard in Hollywood. John wanted to introduce me to his latest endeavor, Crispy Crust – a new concept in pizza-making. I knew one of the questions I would ask him would be, “Why another pizza place? Doesn’t Los Angeles have enough take-out pizza?” 
I arrived at The Ponchik Factory to see a small storefront, with a few tables and chairs, nothing fancy, but as soon as you walk in the door, smell the roasted chickens and pizzas cooking, you look past the plain exterior and go straight for the food. The lines were long with people ordering all kinds of delicacies. John, however, wanted to talk about Crispy Crust not The Ponchik Factory. He is planning to separate the businesses within the next six months and was excited for me to taste his gourmet pizzas to get an honest opinion. I told him I would be truthful. Nothing less would satisfy him anyway. At first, I thought I would pacify him, eat his pizza and leave, but was quite surprised with the first delectable bite that it was good. In fact, it was very good.
It all started twenty-three years ago when John and his mother, father and three brothers arrived in this country from Armenia with only forty dollars in their pocket. With only three words of English (“Yes,” “No,” and “Thank you”) and a hairdresser’s license from his native country, John found work within twenty days painting for a construction company. By the end of the first year, he was working three jobs and ready to take his hairdresser’s exam to qualify for a license in this country. Meanwhile, his mother had been making Ponchiks (Russian donuts). They became so popular the family started a business selling them from their house. Pretty soon the orders were so huge they needed to relocate the business to a larger space and The Ponchik Factory was born. The bakery business lasted only 2 years. John saw that people were more interested in food than dessert so he started offering regular food, phasing Ponchiks out.
That was seventeen years ago. He continues to thrive with his base business but is moving in new directions. “Being in the food business, I didn’t like every pizza I tasted. I thought there should be a better pizza,” he said. “I could make a better pizza if I put my heart into it.” He started experimenting 
with it and came up with what he feels are the essential ingredients for a great pizza: homemade crust that stays crispy, homemade sauce, top quality cheese and gourmet toppings. John added pizza to The Ponchik Factory menu on Tuesdays and Wednesdays at first, to get the customer response. Originally, starting with three varieties, the demand was so great, they started serving pizza everyday and now offer twelve delicious varieties to choose from including Tomato Basil, Pepperoni Sausage and Mushroom and their latest, Teriyaki Chicken.
I have to say the crust is perfect. It crunches when you break it, yet it’s soft inside. There’s enough toppings to satisfy everyone’s taste, yet the pizza is light and filling. 
I asked a customer, Patrick Cisneroz, who was picking up his order, why he eats at Crispy Crust? He declared he was from Chicago. It was hard to find a good place that makes good pizza like back home. “You only go to one barber to cut hair…once you find the one person, you don’t change. Well, it’s the same with pizza.” That’s what John Melkonyan was telling me all along. This pizza reminded people of the pizza they had back home in New York, Philly and Chicago.
Prior to opening Crispy Crust, John asked, “what would I pay for good quality food – not what everyone else is charging?” He studied other pizza places, realizing it doesn’t take much to produce quality food and sell it at a reasonable price. Why not give them combinations of food items as “special 
values” without expiration dates such as adding a Caesar Salad with any pizza order for only $2.50 or how about an order of Hot Wings regularly $5.95 for 12 pieces but with your pizza order – half price at $2.95. These combinations are the concept that John hopes will expand Crispy Crust to a neighborhood near you.
The best part is not just the price. It’s not even the free delivery. It’s the taste of the pizza itself. Crispy Crust is true to its name but like I said you can’t judge a book by its cover…you have to try it to enjoy it!
Phone: (323) 467-2000 (located at Vine and Fountain) – Take out only.Free Delivery to the Hollywood area.No Minimum Hours:7 days a week 10 a.m. – 10 p.m. Su-Thu; noon – 11 p.m. Fri & Sat Pizzas: 3 sizes – Small 5.50 – 7.95 (6 pieces) Medium 8.50 – 10.95 (8 pieces) Large (which is an extra large) 11.50 – 13.95 (12 pieces) Best Bet: BBQ Chicken, Pepperoni Sausage & Mushroom, Teriyaki ChickenAll photos by Rona Edwards. All rights reserved. Photos and article can not be used without permission of author. Copyright 2006.
