PAZZO-MANIA IN SILVERLAKE
By Rona Edwards
Every few years or so, a new trend of ice cream, yogurt or gelato shops pop up in Los Angeles. They come and go – and cyclically come again! This year, we are seeing a wave of Gelato Cafes opening in malls and storefronts around the L.A. basin. But none equals the daring and exotic flavors that Pazzo in Silverlake offers their patrons.
Owned and operated by Mike Buch, his sister, Lisa and her husband, Chris 
Weiss, and their uncle, Mark Geldman, the strictly family affair went into business together to escape the corporate world. Pazzo is indeed in a tasty class by itself. At first, they thought they’d open a gas station but when Chris and Lisa vacationed in Santa Barbara, they passed an ice cream shop and knew this was the business for them. And they’ve taken to it like bees to honey, serving up such flavors as Pistachio, Chocolate Malt, Madagascar Vanilla, Midnight 
Espresso and Sorbettos that are so fresh, you’d swear you were eating the actual fruit, which is bought fresh from the growers or local farmer’s markets. The flavors change all the time depending on what’s being sold in the marketplace. I’ve sampled a tart Red Plum, an exquisite Yellow Nectarine, Blueberry and Apricot. But what makes their flavors bold and inventive is the addition of spices to the icy delights: the Lemoncello with Mint, Pineapple with Cardamom, Green Tea with Ginger or two favorites of mine – Chocolate Coconut Curry and the Chocolate Martini (made with Grey Goose Vodka).
Pazzo means “crazy in a clownlike way” which is the perfect name for a gelateria that pushes the envelope in taste. Mark was the one who pressed everybody into extreme flavors – he took traditional flavors suited to Italian palettes and adapted them with American touches. They discovered what they needed to know about
the freezing process – when the Gelato reaches freezing point, that’s when you add that extra zest at the finish. “When you taste the Mango with Cayenne – you have that burst of fruit flavor and, at the very end, it explodes with the essence of the spice. It’s amazing and exciting,” a passionate Mike explains. Also, the Sorbettos have no dairy and the Gelato is made with organic milk, unlike traditional ice cream, which is made with cream or butterfat. Therefore, Gelato is less fattening than ice cream.
When they first opened, the lines were out the door, serving a thousand customers on the weekend and 600 during the week. They ran out of Gelato every night and knew they needed to get a larger machine to handle the demand. “The new machine costs as much as a BMW,” jokes Chris. “And it takes 14 minutes to make a pan of Gelato.”
They also serve Intelligentsia coffee and boast the only retail shop that sells the specialty java in the L.A. area. In addition, they sell Boule chocolates, John Kelly Fudge, as well as premium teas. They’re planning on adding a line of fresh fruit drinks soon and homemade waffle cones in such flavors as maple, cinnamon and chocolate – making them the Mrs. Field’s of ice cream cones.
Specialty items include a Pazzogato (their take on the Italian Affogatto) – espresso over ice cream – and a sundae called Roman Holiday ( 3 scoops of Gelato/Sorbetto, your choice of gourmet toppings, fresh fruit, whipped cream and nuts).
“We love doing this and are completely committed to producing the best Gelato in L.A. You’ll be seeing Pazzo all over. Global domination through Gelato!” Mark kids seriously.
Chris adds, “It’s not just the Gelato, it’s the customer experience – they’re greeted with a ‘hello,’ they can sit on Sunset in a café-type environment – with European pop playing in the background – surrounded by wonderful people. It’s a community hangout.”
AUTHOR’S NOTE: Unfortunately, Mark Geldman passed away, taken way too young, from cancer soon after this article was printed. But his presence will always be felt as he experimented with unusual parings of spices, fruits and flavors that make Pazzo Gelato a culinary experience. Pazzo Gelato carries on in his absence and in his memory still serving up wild and tasty sorbettos and ice creams.
Pazzo www.pazzogelato.net 3827 Sunset Blvd (at Hyperion); (323) 662-1410; 11 am – 10 pm Tues-SundayBest Bets: Everything! They’re not stingy with the tasting spoons either.Cups: small 3.24; medium 3.95; large 4.50; Roman Holiday $5.95; Pazzogato $ 4.50; Shakes $ 4.95; add malt .50 Toppings include banana caramel/chocolate/espresso chocolate/ caramel Pints $ 8.95 and quarts $15.95
